Home
The Chairman's Message
The 2nd Dubai Film Festival
Dangerous Professions
Syria Under Siege
2005 Dubai Airshow
The Luxurious Floating Home
Petra And Palmyra
Al Idrisi
Woman Of Distinction
The History Of Pins And Needles
Exploring Jebel Hafeet
The 7th Habtoor Tennis Challenge
Habtoor Engineering
Habtoor News
About Us
Back Issues

Contact Us

 

 

By: A.I. Makki


  From the earliest times, much before the dawn of recorded history, two great cities flourished in the desert. One of them was hidden in rocks of a mountain and the other stood out in the open desert. Nobody from the outside world knew about their existence until they were, at the begin of modern times, accidentally discovered by explorers who chanced upon their splendid ruins totally by surprise during their travels in the desert. These ruins speak eloquently about the vast wealth and power of the long-dead citizens of the two mystique cities. Where did that wealth come from that has enabled the people of these two cities to live their lives in such luxury, and the leisure to build such magnificent cities, the likes of which have been never seen in this world? The amazing ruins of these two wonderful cities are now being coaxed by the spade to yield their long-held secrets; and the spade of the archeologist is slowly revealing the amazing history of the two nations, which were ranked among the most powerful of the world during their times.

  The city of Petra stands in the Jordanian desert, and lies in a valley that runs from the Gulf of Aqabah to the Red Sea, in the heart of the massive mountain of Petra, shut away from the prying eyes of the outside world. At first sight, one will find the city to be unapproachable. In order to travel to the ruins of Petra, one has to go through a narrow crevice in the rocks, and the passage will turn and twist downhill for a mile getting narrower as people travel through it, with rocks of the mountains bearing down menacingly from every side on the traveler, blocking out the sun. Then, just as the traveler has given up all hope of seeing the city, he will catch the first glimpse of the enormous, imposing columns carved into the mountain rock through an opening at the edge of the passage. Suddenly, the traveler will emerge into bright sunlight to stand before a breathtaking, awesome sight of a huge city, of enormous houses and buildings all carved into the walls of the mountainside. At first sight, one could be deceived into believing that he has come across one of the old Roman cities that has long been forgotten by the outside world. But on closer examination, he finds though the architecture of the enormous city resemble Roman architecture, there is an elaborate detail in its settings, which is not found among the ruins of the other great Roman cities. Moreover, the city stands in the hollow of a mountain mass in an isolated valley in Jordan, totally out of place and out of its time.

  According to the archeologists, the fantastic buildings in the extraordinary city of Petra were probably built and inhabited sometime in the first and second century before the beginning of the Common Era. One of the largest and most important buildings in the city was perhaps the Treasury, because of a sculptured urn that stands on its top, which is believed to be filled with gold. In fact, this belief is so powerful that the urn is completely ridden with bullet holes by treasure hunters seeking to acquire the gold.

  Beyond the Treasury, there is another narrow valley, which leads a visitor to the main city of Petra that is filled with hundreds of buildings, temples and tombs. Some of the buildings appear plain, whereas others are decorated with obelisks, pillars and cornices all done up in a variety of styles. This lost city withstood the ravages of time and the savage wind carrying fine sand over the centuries that destroyed the details of the external carvings on the buildings, but this is compensated by the splendid hue of colors, in which the city is seen during different times of the day. From distance, the city looks pink in color, but on approaching it the buildings take on a golden yellow or a light purple color. From afar it appears, as if they are painted by a master-artists with huge brushes dripping in bright colors across a huge oil canvas, on drawings of huge buildings and carved pillars.

  Petra was unknown to the world for nearly a thousand years, except perhaps to the nomadic Bedouin tribesmen passing that way, until it was discovered by Johann Ludwig Burckhardt, a Swiss explorer, who had set out alone on a journey through Arab lands in 1809, after studying Arabic. He mapped this uncharted territory and unlocked its secrets to the outside world. In order to make his travel in the Arab lands easy, and partly because of his genuine attraction to the Muslim way of life and its culture, he disguised himself as an Arab and took an assumed name of Ibrahim ibn Abdallah. He had in his studies acquired a good knowledge of Islam and its rituals and followed them scrupulously to avoid suspicion and detection as a non-Muslim among the Arab tribes. He had earlier spent two years in Syria, visiting some of its ancient ruins and cities, and on his way to Palestine, he first heard of an amazing city hidden deep among the mountains of the Jordan valley. The Arabs believed the existence of a tomb of Prophet Aaron (Harun), the brother of Prophet Moses (Musa) on a hill near the ancient city veiled to the outside world.

  Intrigued, he declared his intention of making a sacrifice at the tomb of the Prophet Harun to his guide, which was near the site of the ruins. His guide, after some persuasion, agreed to lead him to this place. Making their way across the hostile desert, Burckhardt along with his goat and the guide, advanced through the valley that led to the city of Petra. At first sight, he was wonderstruck at the magnificent splendor of the city. However, he overcame his awe, and paused to examine in detail several monuments in the city, covertly taking notes and making sketches in a notebook that he carried with him. By the time he reached by foot the mountain that held the Prophet's tomb, it was dark and he had to sacrifice the goat at the bottom of the mount and returned to the camp without making the climb to the top.

  Burckhardt's book was published in 1822, five years after his death in Egypt. However, before its publication the city of Petra had been rediscovered by other European explorers, and their finding created a sensation in the West. Soon Petra became a favorite destination spot for tourists, adventurers and serious scholars. To the archeologists, the city offered a fascinating puzzle, for the architecture of the buildings carved in the rock showed the influence of all the ancient buildings found in Syria, Egypt, Greece and Rome.

  Since, 1958, a more serious work, done by British excavators has revealed the extraordinary culture and history of the people who once inhabited this place.

  The Nabateans are credited for building the city of Petra. However, before them, this area was occupied by other people known as Edomites, who were continuously on hostile terms with the other neighboring states. They occupied an important part of the region, which was on the crossroads of several important trade routes and profited immensely from the trade caravans that passed their way. It is believed that the Edomites were defeated by the Jews under King Solomon, and their rule extended to this area for the next two hundred years. Later, the Babylonians conquered the Jews and led them into captivity. The Edomites who had been expelled from this area started to move in to reoccupy the lands, which were formerly under their control. However, this area was again invaded, this time by the Nabateans, a nomadic, pastoral tribe of Arab origins. They integrated easily with the Edomites in this area to lead a more settled life. By the year 300 BCE, the Nabateans appeared to have gained a complete control of the area and constructed for themselves the first urban settlement by carving their living quarters, buildings and tombs in the rocks of the nearby mountains. At the peak of their prosperity in the 1st century BCE, the city of Petra had as many as 30,000 inhabitants. They were governed by a king from 168 BCE and formed a state that resembled a democratic state, where the king was held accountable for all his actions.

  Water was scarce in this region and it was highly prized. The chief deity of this city was Al Uzza, and she was also the deity of springs and water. The Nabateans used the water available to them ingeniously to farm the surrounding desert lands and developed Petra into an oasis throughout the year. They spoke a language that was similar to Ahramaic. They produced beautiful pottery and splendid architecture, some of which was influenced - in the later days - by the Roman style. By the first century CE, the city of Petra became again a center of trade because of the continuous wars fought between Egypt and Syria. Soon, the Nabateans became rich and powerful enough to extend their control to an area, which reached to the north of Damascus. As they became wealthier, the style of living improved, which in turn, was reflected by the rich decorations on the tombs of the later day Nabateans. One of the buildings that excelled all others in its grandeur, elegance and majesty, was Deir, the Monastery, which was 138 feet high and cut deeply into mountain rock, with a large plain before it to conduct their religious rituals, which contained some elements of animal and human sacrifice.

  By the year 196 CE, the Romans had annexed Petra and it became a Roman province. In the past, the Nabateans had made rich profits from Roman trade with India and Arabia that was conducted in their lands. After conquering Petra, the trade routes came under the control of Rome. The Romans started constructing their own buildings in Petra, and provided the city with an amphitheater that had room for 4000 spectators and constructed a temple - Kasr al Bint - the only free standing structure in the heart of the city, where the great marketplace was located. It was here, where caravans from the East traded with others in the West in spices, ivory, amber and bales of cloth. Petra continued to be an important trading center for the next two centuries. However, its importance waned steadily with the other cities such as Palmyra in the north started attracting trade. Gradually, the merchants left, and along with them left the Roman legions whose duty was to guard the trade routes. After the Roman Empire converted into Christianity, the city of Petra acquired a bishop and a few of its buildings were converted into churches. But the city - ruled from Byzantium - had lost its earlier significance and left to its own devices.

  Before the arrival of Muslim rule in the seventh century, the city of Petra was struck by a severe earthquake causing the few inhabitants to desert the city completely. But, with the sketchy details, and the absence of a clear record of Nabatean history, it will forever remain a mystery to understand the significance of some of the ruins in the city of Petra and will make it impossible for anybody to unravel the mystique that still surrounds this city.

  Three hundred miles to the north of the city of Petra stands the city of Palmyra, which is now completely in ruins. In contrast to Petra, this city stands on open ground and is visible for miles in the open desert, and is located about 140 miles east of Damascus. Its huge columns and colonnades and many of the skeletons of its vanished buildings stand as a mute sentinel of the past and visitors have been overwhelmed for centuries by the huge magnificent ruins of this city.

  Most of Palmyra's magnificence can be traced back to the second century CE, when it had reached its peak and prosperity as a trading center. However, recent records of excavations have traced its history to nearly 2000 BCE, when this city was an oasis called Tadmor, which was the original name for Palmyra, and its current name came from the Romans who had occupied the city. For thousands of years, this area was occupied by the Arab nomadic tribes who had started leading a settled way of life. In time, they adopted the language of the Aramaeans, another Semitic tribe of Arab origins. For many centuries, the city of Palmyra was a modest and prosperous town. Later, the Roman and Greek influences in the first century CE transformed this sleepy town giving it a grandeur, which can be seen among its remains in the present day. With the growth of long-distance trade the city began attracting traders from Persia, India and China to the east and the Phoenicians from the west. Traders could do business at this mutually convenient meeting point in ivory, spices, silk, gold and jewels saving both on time and wasted effort by journeying far to other trading routes. The people of Palmyra levied a tax on the traders and offered them a place to carry on their trade, and provided them with fresh water and accommodation, which in turn, added to their prosperity. In fact, the city of Palmyra became the first city in that region to be known as a "nation of shopkeepers."

  Some idea of their wealth can be gleaned by the rich adornments worn by the surviving statues of women of Palmyra and the amount of wealth lavished on decorating the tombs of the dead, which clearly belonged to the rich in the city. Others were buried in desert graves marked with modest headstones. The most imposing feature of the city is the Great Colonnade, which was built in the second century CE. It consisted of more than seven hundred columns, measuring 29 feet in height, crowned with intricate designed heads, and formed the main thoroughfare of the city lined with shops and trading offices.

  Near the end of the colonnades stand the ruins of a great temple of Bel, the supreme deity of Palmyra. Here, the priests sacrificed animals to the idols of greater and lesser deities kept in the temple and held regular feasts in their honor. The city continued to thrive under Roman patronage for a time, which continued to add on to its prosperity. However, by the middle of third century CE, Syria was invaded by Persia, and successfully blocked all trade routes to Palmyra. The citizens of Palmyra were left with no choice but to come to terms with the enemy or fight them without Roman help. At this point in time, a leading Senator of Palmyra by name Odenathus entered the scene to deal with the crisis. He tried to buy peace with the Persians but all his attempts were rebuffed. In the end, he set about the task of raising an army to fight the Persians and enlisted recruits from all over Syria and fashioned them into a disciplined army. Then, he took on the might of the Persians and defeated them decisively, and declared himself the King of Palmyra. With his help, Rome regained its influence in the Middle East and recognized Palmyra as an independent state.

  Odenathus did not rule for long. He was assassinated in 268 CE and was succeeded by his beautiful wife Zenobia who ruled Palmyra on behalf of her infant son Vallabathus. Historians of the past relate that she was an extraordinary woman who was both, brave and intelligent. She was an expert horsewoman, extremely ambitious and wanted to build an empire of her own. Determined to release Palmyra from Roman influence and its status as a vassal state, she marched against Antioch in 271 CE and captured the important Mediterranean Port. Next, she sent her army to Egypt, which emerged victorious from the expedition, and gave her son the title of Augustus - a title, which was used only by the Roman Emperor - and started minting her own currency.

  By this time, Rome was ruled by a new Emperor, Aurelian, who, after settling all his border disputes with Germany, marched with his army to Antioch to curb the growing menace and the increasing power of Palmyra and defeated the army of Zenobia, which was stationed there.  After suffering another decisive defeat at the hands of the Romans, at a place eighty miles from Palmyra, Zenobia retreated hastily with her generals to the city, and started fortifying its walls.

  When the Roman Emperor reached Palmyra, he found the city well-defended. Faced with a superior Roman army, Zenobia appealed to Persia for help, but it never came. Emperor Aurelian settled his army for a long siege near Palmyra. He offered peace and exile to Zenobia, but she rejected his terms. The siege dragged on. The Roman army had organized well-supplied lines for its army, but the people of Palmyra were starving for food. In this desperate situation, Zenobia decided to escape the siege by riding on a dromedary in a daring dash in the night in the desert crossing the Roman army lines. She managed to reach Euphrates before being overtaken, and was captured by the Roman army sent in her pursuit.

  After Zenobia was taken into captivity, the citizens of Palmyra surrendered. The Roman Emperor entered the city, had some of the important people of the city killed and then brought a trail against Zenobia. Fearing for her own life and of her son, Zenobia blamed her advisors for her military misadventures against the might of the Roman Empire. Her advisors were executed by the Romans and that spared the lives of Zenobia and her son.

  Some historians relate that Zenobia committed suicide unable to bear the humiliation after her defeat. Others say that she was taken into Rome in a triumphal procession, decked in all her royal jewels with her hands, feet and a gold collar around her neck, all bound together in shackles of gold. According to another account, the Emperor Aurelian had her married to a Roman senator where she lived a comfortable life with her family until the end of her life.

  Meanwhile, the people of Palmyra regrouped and made another attempt to win independence from Roman rule, but this uprising was quickly put to an end by Rome. However, this time Emperor Aurelian had the city sacked. After this military defeat, the importance of Palmyra rapidly declined, both as a city and an important trading center.

  In the seventh century, the Muslims easily conquered the city and tried to reclaim the destroyed building stones for their own constructions. Gradually the city of Palmyra ceased to be of any importance to the Muslims and its decline continued until the city was completely deserted by all its inhabitants.

  When Western travelers reached Palmyra in the 17th century they found a small tribe of Arabs living in the ruins of the city in huts made up of mud. A mosque had been constructed in the temple of Bel and was there until 1929. Today, the only inhabitants of Palmyra are the archeologists with their spades, trying topiece together the history of this once-magnificent city.

   

| Top | Home | Al Habtoor Group | Metropolitan Hotels | Al Habtoor Automobiles |
|
Diamond Leasing | Emirates International School |